Diversity and Inclusion

India is extremely diverse, an obvious point but a significant factor that affects every aspect of life. I had a great conversation today with one of the directors from the Mumbai office about the diversity of India and its future economic prospects. With such a large population and as a growing economic power, there are high expectations about the societal and economic future of India. With more than 18 official languages and many more unofficial languages, different ethnic groups, different religions, and the pressure of ‘modernization,’ India faces a truly daunting task. There are more than 30 bank holidays, because there is a bank holiday for every religious and national holiday in India. This means every Hindu, Buddhist, Christian, Jain, Sikh, etc holiday is observed. How so very inclusive! Then there are the languages, sometimes mistakenly referred to as dialects. There is a distinct language in each of state India; it was one of the factors when dividing India into its present states. So school children learn subjects in their native language until first grade, and then start learning Hindi and English. However the unfortunate children who are uneducated often do not get a chance to learn Hindi and English. When you call Customer Service there are multiple language options. Then there are different ethnic groups. Often times this diversity is found within a state. So to have true unity and face the 21^st century, the people within each state must unify and the states must unify. Otherwise you have a very splintered country which lacks the focus in order to maximize on its vast potential.

Then there are differing views on the best path forward to economic growth. Mostly accepted now is the Western model of industrialization. Gandhi had advocated a republic of self-sufficient villages. A great illustration of the tension between tradition v. ‘modernization.’ In my research of state youth policies, there is an urgency in ensuring that traditional arts and culture are not forgotten. There is a sense of cultural pride that people have, and it has resulted in India painting its own version of modernization. I am curious to see how this will continue in the future. My theory is that since India has such a dominant popular culture of its own, with Bollywood and the accompanying music videos, that Western cultural influences will not be as significant. In other countries I've visited, American culture has been supremely dominant. In France American films were dubbed in French. The movie theaters here have Hindi movies, maybe one American movie. In other countries I hear about Brad Pitt or Julia Roberts. Here I hear about SRK, Kareena Kapoor, Aamir Khan, among others. Sometimes I would feel like American culture was encroaching on other countries' pop cultures, and sometimes I could feel an undercurrent of tension from the people. In India, popular culture is very independent and has acted as a great buffer to outside influences.

And then there’s China. There is much talk about China in the US, but I’ve never heard so much about China as I have here. I’ve seen posters that compare Indian and Chinese statistics on workforce, growth, and overall renown. As a fellow BRIC country, India is very aware of the comparisons being made between China and India and seems eager to prove their significance. They want to make sure India is on the map as China is. I have to agree that in my general conversations in the US, people would talk more about the influence that China is gaining. You would hear about the importance of learning Mandarin. I didn't hear as much about India or learning Hindi. However looking at the numbers, India has made huge strides in the past several years and can be the dark horse in this 'competition.' I think the realization of this potential will again lie in India’s ability to synthesize a wildly diverse country.

But India is a magical place. There really is no other place like it; it’s a different level of existence. A harmonious mix of contradictions. Frenetic sensory overload but life at a slower pace. Embracing Western models of growth but applying them to traditional industries. Then there are the cows and elephants that roam around the streets. That get fed from cars in parking lots.

India's Clean Heart

My roommate and I decided to brave the public buses for the first time last Saturday. By braving the buses, I mean that, for me, buses are the most intimidating form of public transportation. Subways and light rail have signs with clearly labeled directions and stops and maps. With buses, you have to be sure you're on the side of the road going in the right direction, you have to know where the bus stop is, and you have to be familiar with the destination area to know where to get off the bus. On top of it all, the buses in Mumbai have the route numbers in Hindi script (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_numerals) so you have to make sure your Hindi is good enough to know you're getting on the right bus. Once you've determined you're at the right bus stop going in the right direction, then there's the problem of actually getting onto the bus. Buses in India don't really stop, they slow down to a crawl while people exit from the front of the bus and people jump on at the back, and speed up again once everyone is physically on the bus. Not sitting, not even completely off the stairs getting onto the bus. Once all limbs and belongings are within the doorframe of the bus, it speeds up. I made sure my feet were planted right within the threshold of the bus, and got a good grip on the rail while my purse was still hanging out of the bus, it started on its way. I very much like this system, it is very efficient and shows there is no need for the bus to wait while all people exit and enter the bus from the same door and wait for all the passengers to pay. While waiting for my first bus ride, an older man started talking to me. I happened to wearing my "I'm not a tourist. I live here" shirt that's written in Hindi. He was asking about it and asked how I was liking India. Every Indian I've talked to has asked how I like India. Understandably, Indians have pride in their country. India is unlike any place I've been before and you can feel the whole country is on the brink of realizing its full potential in becoming a real power in the international arena. While standing on the unpaved side of the road, near the ubiquitous litter that lines the streets, in the midst of all the honking and the dust and pollution in the air, he looked at me and said "India is not clean, but our heart is clean." I knew exactly what he meant. And I know my attempt to explain it right now will be futile, but I will try.

Being in India is definitely sensory overload. There is so much noise, people, smells, and things happening that it's overwhelming. The crowdedness and business along with the pollution and litter can mix together that doesn't always give the impression of being clean. The crowdedness and lack of space lead to a different culture of lines and customer service. I'm used to standing at the counter and waiting for someone to help me promptly, and as soon as they're ready. Here, I've noticed that people think I'm just standing there, with so much space between myself and the counter, that they go up to the counter and ask for help directly. I didn't feel like someone just cut in front of me, I realized that customer service operates a little differently here and you have to make it clear that you are waiting for something or someone. Despite all of this, I've noticed that people love India and want you to love it too. They will speak English to you, but a few words of Hindi lights up their faces because they are so excited that a foreigner would try to learn some of their language. One man at a linen shop I was at would speak to me rapidly in Hindi for about a minute for each Hindi word I was able to communicate with him. When I demonstrated I didn't understand, he would stop talking but his excitement would set him off again at my next Hindi word. Even at the bus stop, one of the young women overheard our conversation with the man and helped us get onto the right bus and told us when to get off. Every person I've asked for help has gone out of his/her way to help me. People here love India, and want others to see its beauty and love it like they do. Isn't that the sign of a clean heart?

Bring on the humidity, Mumbai!

After my first Indian railway experience and an overnight train from Delhi, I have arrived in Mumbai! My first impression: it is HUMID! Delhi has a relative humidity of 34% and Mumbai has a relative humidity of 80% and you can really feel the difference. Add that to 34 degree weather (about 85F) and you just sweat instantly. Just standing outside makes you sweat and sticky. It's gross. My employer is actually based in Navi Mumbai, which is a suburban train ride from Mumbai. I live at the employer's complex and it is pretty nice, which means I don't really have to go outside or have a commute. It takes me about 2 minutes to get to work as I live about 50ft from the office. I share a flat with another volunteer and we're definitely putting some effort into making it homey for the next year. We have done a little exploring and really lucked out with our neighborhood. In one direction we have a 3 story mall with a supermarket (!!!) and McDonalds. In another direction we have roads full of stores of the more traditional Indian fare where we can get good bargains on everything from fruits and vegetables to clothes.

I've also started my role with my employer and right now I'm just familiarizing myself with the organization, its history and its current projects. I have to say I'm impressed with how much the organization has accomplished at the local, state, and national levels. I can't wait to be a part of the change they are already causing.

I know that's not much for now, but I've been taking it easy trying to settle in and make my flat a home. I've also been eaten alive by mosquitoes in the three days I've been here so I'm trying to find a solution for that. Wish me luck!

Old Delhi, "The Real India"and Cricket!

For the past two and a half weeks I have come to know and love New Delhi. There is such a richness of people and personality that can't really be described. However last Saturday and tonight I was able to spend time in Old  Delhi. As the cycle rickshaw drivers will tell you, Old Delhi is the Real India. Saturday began with another visit to Chandni Chowk. We had cycle rickshaws for the day to navigate us through the streets of Chandni Chowk that we got lost in before. We started at the Digambar Jain Lal Temple, and had a brief visit with the jain saadhu before receiving a blessing. From there it was a visit to the spice market and a great view of the market's hustle.  Men with carts carrying 10 heavy sacks of spices would weave among the pedestrians, cycles, autos, and cars to deftly park at the curb by the market. Then other men would carry a large sack on their backs up weaving again through a crush of people to take the spices to market. There were some amazing views from the top of one of the spice market buildings. You could see the rush of people on the street and the buzzing activity of the cars and rickshaws mingling with the people. Walking through the spice market was an exercise in trying to hold in your sneezing and coughing because the spices were so biting and pungent. Seeing the sacks and sacks of spices was a great illustration of how much flavor Indian food has. After the spice market we got back into the cycle rickshaws and had lunch at Karim's, a fifth generation Old Delhi institution. After our delicious lunch, we made a visit to Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India. Inside the courtyard of the mosque was a large pool of water with rivers leading into it. There were 100 men lounging about, and about 3 women. Our Old Delhi ended with our cycle rickshaws back to the Red Fort. Experiencing the crowds of people and the chaos of cars and people on the street is the very picture of the picture of Old Delhi and India. I'm amazed at the amount of people there are and am bracing myself for the larger crowds in Mumbai.

Also based in Old Delhi, we spent an evening on Thursday with Aashray Adhikar Abhiyan, an NGO that has set up homeless shelters and free health clinics across Delhi. AAA does such amazing work. Seeing the most marginalized, forgotten people who are often tossed aside or shunned receive health care and treatment was an eye-opening and touching experience. Two doctors were sitting on two folding chairs while the patients waited in a line on the floor for their turns to speak with the doctors. There is a table set up with all the medicines that are distributed for free to the patients by a pharmacist who also volunteers. The health clinic is open Mondays and Thursdays and helps people with mental illness and chemical dependencies. If patients need in-patient treatment, they receive more care at IHBAS (Institute of Human Behavior and Allied Sciences.) It's amazing to think that all is needed to set up a homeless health clinic is two folding chairs and folding table. They are able to treat 200 patients a night and have had many success stories of mentally ill homeless people who have received treatment and are now self-sustaining. The homeless shelters are free to women, children, and the elderly while it is 6 RS ($0.13) for men. Before going to the AAA session, I was debating staying at home and resting from an exhausting week. After, I was so glad I went. It was eye-opening to see an NGO on the ground and operating a true grassroots movement. It doesn't take much to provide free health care to the homeless and help make marginalized people make complete u-turns of their lives. I feel so inspired after seeing the changes that this organization is making and the complete generosity by spending their time and resources helping these people. In another vein, it makes all the amenities I "can't live without" seem so superfluous and my complaining a source of shame. Not only does my complaining marginalize these people even more, but the content of my conversations seems so superficial and insignificant.  That may be extreme, but seeing the great work that AAA is truly awesome and inspiring. I'm hoping to use the experience to motivate me during my year of volunteering.

And finally, world cup cricket! Cricket is a HUGE deal in India, almost a religion. The world cup has been going on for a few weeks. Wednesday was a largely publicized semi-final between India and Pakistan. After about 9 hours of game time, we had a great fireworks show on the roof of our hostel. Fireworks were going off all over the city in celebration of the win against Pakistan. With their win, India was set to play Sri Lanka in the final on Saturday. Although the game started at 2:30pm, we knew it wouldn't be over until about 11pm. Close to 11pm, we made it out to India Gate in anticipation of the celebrating that would follow India's win. And what a celebration it was! I've always wanted to experience the absolute joy and pride that people feel when their country wins in the international match of their national sport. Indian cricket fans did not disappoint. The road around India was packed with people and soon packed with cars and motorbikes. I was interviewed by two news channels about cricket and the celebration and the celebrators would follow the cameras to demonstrate their joy by dancing and yelling. People were standing on moving cars, hanging out of windows, and I even saw a driver with the door open hanging out of his car while driving. By the time we left at 1am, the celebration was still going strong and the roads were completely jammed for miles. We had to walk back most of the way before we were able to find an auto that could drive on the roads back to our hostel. I think videos and pictures can better illustrate the craziness and chaos after India won the world cup.

Being interviewed for nnis.

People on cars! People everywhere!

Notice the cop's celebrating too!