India's Clean Heart

My roommate and I decided to brave the public buses for the first time last Saturday. By braving the buses, I mean that, for me, buses are the most intimidating form of public transportation. Subways and light rail have signs with clearly labeled directions and stops and maps. With buses, you have to be sure you're on the side of the road going in the right direction, you have to know where the bus stop is, and you have to be familiar with the destination area to know where to get off the bus. On top of it all, the buses in Mumbai have the route numbers in Hindi script (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_numerals) so you have to make sure your Hindi is good enough to know you're getting on the right bus. Once you've determined you're at the right bus stop going in the right direction, then there's the problem of actually getting onto the bus. Buses in India don't really stop, they slow down to a crawl while people exit from the front of the bus and people jump on at the back, and speed up again once everyone is physically on the bus. Not sitting, not even completely off the stairs getting onto the bus. Once all limbs and belongings are within the doorframe of the bus, it speeds up. I made sure my feet were planted right within the threshold of the bus, and got a good grip on the rail while my purse was still hanging out of the bus, it started on its way. I very much like this system, it is very efficient and shows there is no need for the bus to wait while all people exit and enter the bus from the same door and wait for all the passengers to pay. While waiting for my first bus ride, an older man started talking to me. I happened to wearing my "I'm not a tourist. I live here" shirt that's written in Hindi. He was asking about it and asked how I was liking India. Every Indian I've talked to has asked how I like India. Understandably, Indians have pride in their country. India is unlike any place I've been before and you can feel the whole country is on the brink of realizing its full potential in becoming a real power in the international arena. While standing on the unpaved side of the road, near the ubiquitous litter that lines the streets, in the midst of all the honking and the dust and pollution in the air, he looked at me and said "India is not clean, but our heart is clean." I knew exactly what he meant. And I know my attempt to explain it right now will be futile, but I will try.

Being in India is definitely sensory overload. There is so much noise, people, smells, and things happening that it's overwhelming. The crowdedness and business along with the pollution and litter can mix together that doesn't always give the impression of being clean. The crowdedness and lack of space lead to a different culture of lines and customer service. I'm used to standing at the counter and waiting for someone to help me promptly, and as soon as they're ready. Here, I've noticed that people think I'm just standing there, with so much space between myself and the counter, that they go up to the counter and ask for help directly. I didn't feel like someone just cut in front of me, I realized that customer service operates a little differently here and you have to make it clear that you are waiting for something or someone. Despite all of this, I've noticed that people love India and want you to love it too. They will speak English to you, but a few words of Hindi lights up their faces because they are so excited that a foreigner would try to learn some of their language. One man at a linen shop I was at would speak to me rapidly in Hindi for about a minute for each Hindi word I was able to communicate with him. When I demonstrated I didn't understand, he would stop talking but his excitement would set him off again at my next Hindi word. Even at the bus stop, one of the young women overheard our conversation with the man and helped us get onto the right bus and told us when to get off. Every person I've asked for help has gone out of his/her way to help me. People here love India, and want others to see its beauty and love it like they do. Isn't that the sign of a clean heart?